SANTORINI

Considered by many as the most dramatically beautiful of all the Greek islands, Santorini (also known as Thira) was formed by the eruption of a now dormant volcano around 1600 BC. Whitewashed towns balanced on plunging cliffs, scorching black-sand beaches, and sharply stratified geological rock formations make Santorini’s landscape nearly as dramatic as the volcanic cataclysm that created it. This eruptive past—and stark beauty—has led some to believe that Santorini is the lost continent of Atlantis. The destruction of Santorini heralded the fall of Minoan civilization, and the volcanic eruption may have led to a tidal wave that leveled the ancient Minoan palaces on Crete. Yet the volcanoes greatly enriched the island’s soil, bestowing upon Santorini a greener landscape than that of its mostly barren Cycladic neighbors. Beauty this stunning couldn’t be kept secret for long, and armies of tourists pour into Santorini from across the world in parades of weddings, honeymoons, and family vacations. Due to its popularity and the cost of importing water and produce, however, the prices on the island are as steep as the cliffs of the caldera. Thira Atop a hill and far from the black-sand beaches, Thira’s congested assemblage of glitzy shops, whizzing mopeds, and hyperactive crowds can be overwhelming. Tourist traffic has made it easy to find a hamburger or wiener schnitzel, and groups of hotels fearlessly peer over steep cliffs, almost daring the seismically active island to send them tumbling into the sea. Even kitsch and overcrowding, however, can’t negate the pleasure of wandering the cobbled streets and arriving at the caldera in time to watch the sunset. Transportation Boats dock at one of three ports on the island: Athinios, Thira, or Oia. Most ferries arrive in Athinios and buses meet every boat to take passengers to Thira (25min., €2). Be aware that even if your ferry ticket says “Thira,” you may be landing in the town of Athinios. Thira’s port is down a 588-step footpath from the town; you can walk, take a cable car (?22860 22 977; every 20min. 6:30am-11pm; €4, children €2, luggage €2), or hire a donkey (€4). All these methods of transportation are fun and scenic. Santorini’s buses run frequently and can take you anywhere you want to go, but they’re often crowded. Arrive at the station 10min. early to make your bus. Estimated journey lengths are based on ideal circumstances; buses often move much more slowly. Freedom Of The Road.?If you’re only in Santorini for a day or two and want to see as much as possible, rent an ATV, car, or motorbike. This saves you the hassle of riding in crowded buses, and gives you access to the hidden nooks of the island that the flocks of tourists can’t reach. ATVs are simple to operate, and gas is cheap. Orientation And Practical Information From the bus station, walk uphill and to the right to Plateia Theotokopoulou, which is full of travel agencies, banks, and cafes. At the fork, the street on the right is 25 Martiou, the main cobblestone road. It leads from the plateia toward Oia and is home to several accommodations. Head onto the left branch of the fork and turn onto any westbound street to find many of the best bars, stores, and discos. Farther west is the caldera (basin), bordered by Ypapantis, where pricey restaurants, hotels, and galleries bask in the stunning vista. Accommodations And Camping In summer, pensions and hotels fill up quickly and prices skyrocket. The cheapest options on the island are the youth hostels on Perissa beach and in Oia and camping in Thira. You can find cheaper places in Karterados, 2km south of Thira, or in the small inland towns along the main bus routes—try Messaria, Pyrgos, or Emborio. Hostels and many pensions will pick you up at the port if you reserve ahead. Food Inexpensive restaurants are hard to find in Thira, but the few that exist are crammed between shops on the tiny streets between the caldera and the plateia. The caldera is lined with fine dining options that charge hefty prices for their “priceless” views. Generic but convenient snack shops and gyro joints dot the plateia as budget-friendly alternatives for the hungry traveler. Sights And Beaches Most visitors are understandably content wandering the town, lying on the beaches, and gazing on the dramatic cliffs of the caldera. If you’re in the mood for some history about the island, however, there are a number of museums scattered near the city center. The Museum Of Prehistoric Thira.?The sleek collection charts the history of excavation and the geology of Thira, as well as the island’s history from the Late Neolithic to the Late Cycladic I Period through fossils, tools, vases, figurines, and other vessels. Of particular interest is Santorini’s pre-eruption civilization and the magnificent city of Akrotiri, which has been reconstructed in a three-dimensional model. The partially restored wall paintings from Akrotiri are beautifully preserved. One from the House of Ladies depicts large blue papyrus plants and slender women at two-thirds life-size, typical of the Theran scale. The equally impressive wall painting of the Blue Monkeys was done by an avant-garde painter for the city. The gold ibex figurine is a miniature masterpiece discovered in 1999 in a wooden box at the site. Each exhibit has detailed signs in English. (Across the street from the bus station toward the caldera. ?22860 23 217. Open in summer daily 8:30am-8pm; in winter Tu-Su 8:30am-3pm. €3, students and EU seniors €2, EU students free. Oia Dazzling sunsets have made the cliffside town of Oia (EE-ah) famous; the little stucco buildings on the cliffs make it breathtaking. In the aftermath of the 1956 earthquake that leveled the town and much of the northwestern tip of the island, inhabitants carved whitewashed houses into the sheer faces of the cliffside. The budget traveler, however, will not survive long in this spectacular setting. Window-shopping pedestrians and hand-holding honeymooners rule the narrow cobblestone streets at the town’s many upscale boutiques, glitzy art galleries, and craft shops. If browsing isn’t your bag, hightail it to the cliffs and secure a prime sunset view before camera-armed crowds fill the Western perches of town. Transportation And Practical Information.? Buses run from Thira (25min., 23 per day 6:50am-11pm, €1.40). From the bus stop, face away from the road to Thira, walk to the back left corner of the bus turnaround area, and zigzag to the first alley to the left. Follow it uphill to the main plateia. Food.?There aren’t as many budget dining options here, and high-priced restaurants with a view are comparable to Thira’s. A good, cheap option that goes beyond souvlaki is Edwin’s , across the street from the Oia parking lot and on the road to Ammoudi beach. There are mouth-watering pizzas (€6.50-15) in small and large sizes, create-your-own pasta dishes (€7.50-9.50), and traditional Greek appetizers. (?22860 71 971. Tzatziki €2.80. Delivery available. Open daily 1pm-late. Cash only.) Toward the southern end of the town’s main road, Thalami Taverna serves standard dishes on a patio with views of the ocean and Thira in the distance. (?22860 71 009. Seafood spaghetti €8. Grilled octopus €10. Open daily noon-midnight. MC/V.) If you can afford to splurge, there is no better place to do it than 1800 , the town’s classiest bistro, with flowering terraces and soft, classical music wafting through the eating area. In a 19th-century mansion, 50m north of the main church and furnished with antique pieces from the original house, this self-titled “slow-food” restaurant has a rotating menu of creative dishes with international influences. (?22860 71 485; www.1800.gr. Entrees €19-32. Open daily 7pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.) Sights And Beaches.?Follow the signs from the plateia to the Thira Maritime Museum, which charts the island’s rich nautical tradition with model ships, anchors, cannons, antique navigational equipment, maps, and other sea paraphernalia. (?22860 71 156. Open M and W-Su 10am-2pm and 5-8pm. €3, students €1.50.) A 20min. trip down the 236 stone stairs at the end of the main road leads to rocky Ammoudi Beach, where boats are moored in a startlingly deep lagoon. There is no sand and no obvious beach, but the path to the left leads to swimming holes filled with blue water and volcanic rocks; swimmers should prepare themselves for a refreshing shock when jumping in. In the evening you can hire a donkey (€4) to get back up the steep slope.